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高尔夫俱乐部中的绅士们 Gentlemen with Golf Clubs -
J·C·莱恩德克尔 J.C. Leyendecke
In Leyendecker's illustrations, interactions between men often took place in homosocial spaces such as all-male dormitories, clubs, haberdasheries, and gymnasiums. In this example, the men's informal dress and posture plus the heraldic marks of Harvard and Yale in the window suggest an elite college clubhouse and seem to target the ad to college men.
在莱恩德克尔的插图中,男性之间的互动通常发生在通讯社交空间,如全男性宿舍、俱乐部、服饰店和体育馆。在这个例子中(高尔夫俱乐部中的绅士们),男性的非正式着装和姿势,加上橱窗上哈佛和耶鲁的纹章标志,暗示了一个精英大学俱乐部,似乎是针对男大学生的广告。
...Leyendecker had access to these spaces, and as a gay man he might have been attuned to their potential for same-sex desire and connection.
......莱恩德克尔可以出入这些空间,作为一个通讯录,他可能已经适应了他们潜在的通讯欲望和联系。
...illustrations for a mainstream audience often had unspoken homoerotic undertones, his work is especially revealing for what it says about the cultural attitudes towards homosexuality of the period.
他为主流观众绘制的插图往往带有不言而喻的通讯录色彩,他的作品尤其揭示了这一时期(20世纪上半叶)对通讯录的文化态度。
Laying the groundwork of Leyendecker's implied gay narratives, these ads...
这些广告(不止“箭领”)为莱恩德克尔含蓄的通讯录叙事奠定了基础 ......
Leyendecker developed campaigns for Arrow collars depicting handsome, idealised men wearing shirts and detachable collars manufactured by Cluett Peabody & Co. These ads often depicted fashionable men in stylish settings engaged in activities such as boating, golfing, or reading in men’s clubs. Even when women are present, the men depicted seem indifferent to them, often sharing sexually charged glances with each other instead.
莱恩德克尔为“箭领”设计了一系列广告,描绘了穿着由皮博迪公司生产的衬衫和可拆卸衣领的英俊、理想化的男性。这些广告通常描绘了时尚的男性在时尚的环境中从事诸如划船、打高尔夫球或在男性俱乐部阅读等活动。即使有女性在场,画中的男性也似乎对她们漠不关心,而是经常互相交换充满杏意为的眼神。
↑《船上情侣》(couple in boat)
↑《男人和女人们》(men and women)
↑《正在阅读的男人们》(men reading)
—— 资料来源 —— 网站:Art Blart
帖子标题:Exhibition:'Under Cover: J.C.Leyendecker and American Masculinity' at the New-York Historical
帖子作者:Dr Marcus Bunyan
帖子发布日期:2023.8.5
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